clutch woes

[Craig Barnhart]

Hi MD Airheads,

I wrote this to Porter before many people steered him to Southland clutch,
which is a great idea

I've now decided to share what I wrote because it could be a viable
alternative:

I'm sure you'll get different opinions, and I don't claim to be an expert,
but I have learned a lot from doing just about everything on a /5 project
bike, watching Boxer2Valve videos, searching info on Snowbum's site, and
seeking advice from veteran Airheads.

 As a general practice, I replace only what is needed and evaluate other
parts along the way. You definitely need flywheel bolts and a clutch
friction disc. That's what I replaced on my /5 project bike and I got the
disc from Boxer2Valve ($112 including shipping). All my other parts looked
serviceable. If you have questions about individual parts, maybe send pics
to the group.

Cheers,
Craig (The sort of MD Airhead from PA)


On Wed, Feb 17, 2021 at 8:44 AM Porter Gieske via MDAirheads <
mdairheads at casano.com> wrote:

> Greetings folks-
>         I was able to get some work in lately and it is looking pricey.
> Reminder - this is a 1982 R100RS, in rebuild status, i'm into rear of the
> engine, hoping to replace seals.
> Please note that the crank is blocked in the front with a bolt and the
> cover is threaded on.
> I marked the clutch pack assembly with paint, for alignment of all of the
> rotating parts upon rebuild.
> I removed the 6 clutch carrier bolts and nothing happened, everything was
> stuck together, firm.
> I carefully wedged screw drivers in to try to pry the carrier from the
> rest, or the spring, or to start any movement, no dice.
> I resorted to PB Blaster and a heat gun, and the screwdrivers and that got
> things loose, somewhat.
> The alignment pins were really fused well.  But, I got it apart and
> everything off and out of the case.  Next time, lube those pins!
> Now, the rear main seal must have been leaking bad because the inside of
> the case is a terrible mess of char and goo.
> I sprayed it with engine and carb cleaner and I will wipe it all down-
> that all looks salvageable.
> The clutch friction disc is what is bad, its scarred, black and
> impregnated with oil. Its a goner.
> In looking at the parts suppliers, I am getting the recommendation to
> replace all of the assembly as a whole, which is $$.
> 41k on the motor, friction disc is 5mm in total thickness.  Do I need some
> parts, or all of them?
> thanks
> p
>
>
>
>
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