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Thanks Craig! Looks like something I can cobble up.</div>
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<div id="divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font face="Calibri, sans-serif" color="#000000" style="font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> Craig Barnhart <barney12231963@gmail.com><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Thursday, October 7, 2021 8:32 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> Kevin Fahey <faheykm@hotmail.com><br>
<b>Cc:</b> Zwicky, Eric <ezwicky2@gmail.com>; mdairheads@casano.com <mdairheads@casano.com><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: Carb sync and tuning</font>
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<div>Kevin,</div>
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<div dir="ltr">Here is a substitute: <a href="https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/carbsynctool.htm">https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/carbsynctool.htm</a></div>
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<div>Craig</div>
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<div dir="ltr" class="x_gmail_attr">On Wed, Oct 6, 2021 at 8:23 PM Kevin Fahey <<a href="mailto:faheykm@hotmail.com">faheykm@hotmail.com</a>> wrote:<br>
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Can anybody recommend a substitute for an old spoke for the spark plug to plug boot extender? I've been wanting to give the shorting method a go IAW Matt Parkhouse's video but don't have any old spokes and nothing I've got in my 20 year drawer or see at the
local big blue box store gives me a warm and fuzzy.</div>
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Kevin</div>
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<div id="x_gmail-m_-8444800921205878478divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font face="Calibri, sans-serif" color="#000000" style="font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> Zwicky, Eric <<a href="mailto:ezwicky2@gmail.com" target="_blank">ezwicky2@gmail.com</a>><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, October 6, 2021 4:15 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> <a href="mailto:mdairheads@casano.com" target="_blank">mdairheads@casano.com</a> <<a href="mailto:mdairheads@casano.com" target="_blank">mdairheads@casano.com</a>><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: Carb sync and tuning</font>
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<div>Also, it would be helpful to read up a bit on the procedure(s). <br>
There's a few. Shorting sticks, various gauges (I have the Harmonizer <br>
and I love it).<br>
<br>
But basically, after you have the timing and the valves sorted, you want <br>
to baseline your carbs.<br>
<br>
Start with the idle stop screws, which open the butterfly in the carb <br>
body, at *just touching* the lever. or Maybe one turn in. But both <br>
sides set the same way.<br>
<br>
Then turn in the idle mixture screws (at the bottom of the carb body) <br>
til they bottom out, then back them out a full turn, or a turn and a <br>
half. Different years models have different starting points. You'll <br>
have to look at the Bing site, or maybe Snowbum's site, for specifics. <br>
Now you've got the baseline set.<br>
<br>
Also, make sure your throttle cables at each side have roughly the same <br>
amount of play, maybe 6 - 10mm, at the place where the outer cable <br>
sheath sits in the little adjuster on the top of the carb body.<br>
<br>
Then, I like to use the shorting-stick method to get the idle where I <br>
want it (on my R90/6, around 1000rpm), and even on both sides. This is <br>
adjusted at the idle adjustment screws, not the idle mixture screws... <br>
the ones that you level-set at the beginning. (The terminology can be <br>
confusing). Once it's roughed-in like this, I use the Harmonizer from <br>
here on. But I am assuming you don't have one, so let's assume <br>
shorting sticks.<br>
<br>
One I am happy that the idle is at the right rpm and both sides are <br>
contributing equally, I will use the idle mixture screws to set each <br>
side at their highest rpm. You might have to turn one in a bit, and <br>
the other one out a bit. Turn the screw an 8th of a turn at a time, <br>
slowly, waiting to hear an increase or decrease in rpm. Or use the <br>
gauge to see the rpms rise or fall.<br>
<br>
Once you've got the idle mixture optimized on each side, go back to step <br>
one and re-balance the idle stop screws (butterfly valve) as both sides <br>
might no longer be in balance since you've optimized the idle *mixture*.<br>
<br>
You might have to keep going back and forth a few times between idle <br>
speed and idle mixture adjustments til you have them both optimized.<br>
<br>
Once you're happy with those steps, you want to adjust the throttle <br>
cable where it attaches at the carb.<br>
<br>
start the engine and twist the throttle just off idle, and adjustments <br>
to the adjusting nut until both sides are balanced *with the throttle <br>
engaged a bit*. Some people make the cable adjustments with the <br>
throttle just off idle, some recommend running it up to 3000rpm and <br>
checking.<br>
<br>
This is much easier with a gauge than with shorting sticks btw. For <br>
somebody new to it anyway. Old-timers with a lot of experience, and a <br>
good feel and good ears love the shorting sticks method. Me, my ears <br>
are shot from a lifetime of loud music so I like the Harmonizer.<br>
<br>
There's probably a lot of minor details that the gurus will pick apart <br>
here, but this is the gist.<br>
<br>
The thing is to read up and get a feel for it before you start. Just <br>
a few for starters:<br>
<br>
<a href="https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/synchcarbs.htm" target="_blank">https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/synchcarbs.htm</a><br>
<br>
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5bmJ0iYBYgQ" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5bmJ0iYBYgQ</a><br>
<br>
And this pdf from Bing to see where to set your idle-mixture screws to <br>
start:<br>
<br>
<a href="https://www.bingcarburetor.com/uploads/9/8/7/9/98794296/bmw_jetting_chart_cv_carbs.pdf" target="_blank">https://www.bingcarburetor.com/uploads/9/8/7/9/98794296/bmw_jetting_chart_cv_carbs.pdf</a><br>
<br>
Good luck.<br>
<br>
eric<br>
<br>
<br>
On 10/6/2021 3:42 PM, Zwicky, Eric wrote:<br>
> Mac is right. You need to get the timing and valve adjustments sorted <br>
> before doing the carb sync.<br>
> <br>
> I don't know where Lutherville is but there's a concentration of very <br>
> helpful and knowledgeable airheads in the Annapolis area, and further <br>
> west in Westminster.<br>
> <br>
> If you were in Richmond I'd come on over :)<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> On 10/6/2021 3:37 PM, Mac Kirkpatrick wrote:<br>
>> Just an FYI, ALL other parts of a tune up must be satisfactorily <br>
>> completed prior to doing a carb sync. Particularly adjusting the <br>
>> valves, or the sync is useless.<br>
>><br>
>> Mac Kirkpatrick<br>
>><br>
>> On Wed, Oct 6, 2021 at 15:02 Porter Gieske via MDAirheads <br>
>> <<a href="mailto:mdairheads@casano.com" target="_blank">mdairheads@casano.com</a> <<a href="mailto:mdairheads@casano.com" target="_blank">mailto:mdairheads@casano.com</a>>> wrote:<br>
>><br>
>> Does anyone have a carb sync tool and would be willing to help me<br>
>> get my carbs in tune?<br>
>> I have bought a kit of gauges and they are being delivered in a few<br>
>> days- I am looking more for advice on mixture and idle.<br>
>><br>
>> I am in Lutherville, 21093. Bike is 1981 R100. Bing 40’s.<br>
>> Thanks<br>
>> porter<br>
>><br>
>><br>
>><br>
>><br>
>><br>
>> -- <br>
>><br>
>><br>
>> Mac Kirkpatrick<br>
>> Glenmoore, PA<br>
>><br>
>> "After all, what is adventure, but inconvenience, properly regarded?"<br>
>> C. Donahue<br>
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