<html><body style="word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space;" class=""><span style="font-size: small;" class="">What I thought I might glean from this ask was a bit of precision tuning knowledge from someone who has done it many times, and a walk through to listening and understanding.</span><div class=""><font size="2" class="">Yes, this is my first rodeo with these carbs, I cleaned them out last night and everything looked good.<br class=""></font><div class=""><div class=""><font size="2" class="">I didn’t mention that all of the prerequisite work has been done, perhaps because I didn’t think I had to, but I will state that here.</font></div><div class=""><font size="2" class="">Floats are set, v</font><span style="font-size: small;" class="">alves are set, idle mixture screw are out 1.25 (per initial spec) and cable adjusters are slackened, as they have nothing to do with the initial idle settings, but please note that I understand the adjusters for any throttle above idle, which would also require the gauges to set them perfectly, am I right? The sheath setting for normal use, is 1-2mm of slack, as this is readily available information online.</span></div><div class=""><font size="2" class="">I have no means of shorting the plugs, the man in the video, which I have watched 5 times, uses a pair of cut off spokes as extensions for the spark plugs, allowing him easy access to the raw metal for shorting with his insulated screwdriver on each side. Well, I don’t have any spokes to start with, cut off just so for this procedure, which is why I am asking for help with the gauges, right? Does it make sense that the gauges supersede the shorting method? </font></div><div class=""><font size="2" class="">Timing is set, the motor jumps to an idle from cold immediately upon pressing the button, due to an optical ignition trigger, a fresh battery charge, and, well, set timing to OT in the port hole, viewed at the correct angle. </font></div><div class=""><font size="2" class=""><br class=""></font></div><div class=""><font size="2" class="">Right now, the bike starts, idles, and revs ok. The screws for the vacuum fitting are tight in their castings, and need to be removed, perhaps replaced by rubber nipples instead.</font></div><div class=""><font size="2" class="">I understand that I need to adjust the mixture screws to the highest rpm for each side, then balance them to 900 rpm, or close.</font></div><div class=""><font size="2" class="">Then, I can confirm the sync at throttle settings above idle- both of these procedures would benefit from the use of the gauges.</font></div><div class=""><font size="2" class=""><br class=""></font></div><div class="">I am getting an intermittent popping from the right side exhaust, pointing to the need to lower its idle, or raising the left side idle, and fussing with the mixtures of both. </div></div><div class="">As I was trying to do this, no amount of adjustment on right carb throttle stop screw seemed to make a difference.</div><div class="">So, I stopped, ordered the gauges, and asked for help here. </div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class="">Im not a totally dummy when it comes to carbs, I actually enjoy taking them apart. I have had my hands in perhaps 10 different ones - mainly for yard equipment or chainsaws, outboards, scooters, and tractors. Tuning is an art, I know I went through 3 months of jets, needles and clip settings on my mikuni 35mm carb. I get it, its touchy stuff. All I want here is a little expertise- perhaps just to confirm my guesses as to how to get it running right. </div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class="">Lutherville is zip 20193, about 15 minutes north of downtown Baltimore. Towson is also close. </div></div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class="">Thanks to all-</div><div class="">porter</div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class=""><br class=""></div></body></html>