/5 oil flow issue

Tom Cutter rubberchickenracing at gmail.com
Wed Jun 16 11:45:04 EDT 2021


Craig-

I use a system called Divide and Conquer. In this case this means look at
the system in parts. To do this first remove the oil filter cover (bike
laid partly over to left) and see if it is full of oil. A tap on the
starter (plugs out/grounded) will tell you if the oil pump is working. If
you don't get a LOT of oil coming out of the pump cavity very fast, (this
will be messy) then the pump is the problem. On a /5 that means the
woodruff key slipped, so you know where you have to go to fix that. VERY
common fault with the /5 which uses that tiny key.

Check that, report back.

--
Tom Cutter
Yardley, PA
www.RubberChickenRacingGarage.com

"Normalize telling your friends that you love them. Tell them a lot. Make
it weird." --unk




On Wed, Jun 16, 2021 at 11:35 AM Craig Barnhart <barney12231963 at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Greetings Airheads,
>
> I have an oil flow issue on my newly assembled 1972 R50/5 project bike,
> and I'm scratching my head trying to determine the next steps.
>
> This is the first time I ever attempted to start the bike, and I am not
> getting oil from the sump to the cylinder heads, and only a residual amount
> to the oil sensor (oil pressure light stays on).
>
> *Background:*
>
> As part of this three-year (part time) project, I replaced all seals
> including the fuel pump's o-ring and cover, the woodruff key, and visually
> inspected (no measurements) the fuel pump. I also replaced the pickup
> gasket.
>
> *What I've done since the issue, not necessarily in this order:*
>
>    1. Read thru this thread:
>    https://advrider.com/f/threads/airhead-oil-priming-problem-ha.746898/.
>    The *Bill Harris, Dec 5, 2011 *entry is the best summary on the page.
>    2. Studied Snowbum's diagram and notes:
>    https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/oilsketch.htm
>    3. Tested the oil sensor switch.
>    4. Filled the oil filter cavity with oil to prime it (laid the bike on
>    its side to fill--learned this trick from Tom Cutter).
>    5. Hand pumped (as best I could) oil into the oil sensor hole to prime
>    it.
>    6. Visually checked the pickup, bolts, and gasket
>    7. Blew air (with an air compressor) into the pickup and felt air
>    coming out of the right cylinder.
>    8. Blew air into the oil sensor hole.
>    9. Blew air into oil filter cavity holes.
>
> *Outcomes after turning over the engine (spark plugs out; green coil wire
> off) for 90 seconds at a time:*
>
>    1. I got a tiny bit of oil into the left head (right side of the left
>    head) at one point of the process.
>    2. Oil is coming into the oil filter cavity.
>    3. There is residual oil in the oil sensor hole (seeps out when sensor
>    is removed), but it doesn't flow out when turning over.
>
> *AFAIK this is what is left to check:*
>
>    1. Oil pump - Visually inspect again and take measurements this time
>    (remove flywheel, etc.)
>    2. Oil pressure relief valve - Make sure it's not stuck open (remove
>    timing cover)
>    3. Ensure front main bearing cap oil passage hole lines up with engine
>    block hole - Not sure if I can do this visually without removing the main
>    bearing or cap  (remove timing cover)
>    4. Something clogged in the system - I don't know how to check this
>    other than blowing air through it.
>
> *Questions:*
>
>    1. Can I narrow it down to one area before disassembling the rear
>    and/or front end?
>    2. Is there any way to test the system after disassembling besides a
>    visual inspection and measurements?
>    3. I can tow the bike to Chris' tech day if anyone thinks it would
>    help to see it in person. Does anyone think it would be helpful to bring it?
>
> Thank you!
> Craig
>
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