From barney12231963 at gmail.com Sun Jul 4 06:36:15 2021 From: barney12231963 at gmail.com (Craig Barnhart) Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2021 06:36:15 -0400 Subject: /5 oil flow issue In-Reply-To: References:

Message-ID: Hello, This is the last update on my /5 oil flow issue. Oil pump spinning on camshaft: https://youtu.be/AvWdLQlvCMQ Woodruff key missing: https://photos.app.goo.gl/3n8tM8BgbXNPiAVTA Woodruff key replacement with Elmer's glue: https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZnM9uZQssCahuDWNA Oil pump prime and test: https://youtu.be/bs2eNaaPEuU Thank you everyone. Craig On Sat, Jun 19, 2021 at 10:10 AM Craig Barnhart wrote: > Take Two: https://youtu.be/0OiJpaVJyH0 > > No Joy. > > Note: I forgot to remove (and ground) the spark plugs this time but I had > the green coil wire off. The battery was strong enough for the test anyway. > > It's on YouTube this time so feel free to comment there if you like. > > On Fri, Jun 18, 2021 at 4:42 PM Tom Cutter > wrote: > >> oops, I made a typo! SHOULD SAY " If no joy, you know the pump is NOT >> working" >> >> -- >> Tom Cutter >> Yardley, PA >> www.RubberChickenRacingGarage.com >> >> "Normalize telling your friends that you love them. Tell them a lot. Make >> it weird." --unk >> >> >> >> >> >> Virus-free. >> www.avast.com >> >> <#m_-2010962653816028979_m_3493305825176858612_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> >> >> On Fri, Jun 18, 2021 at 4:00 PM Tom Cutter >> wrote: >> >>> I?d put it on the centerstand with a 1/2? shim under the right hand leg >>> of the stand. Hold a pan under the filter cavity, because this test gets >>> messy if everything is working. If no joy, you know the pump is t working, >>> probably because the tiny key slipped out. I glue the key in with Elmer?s >>> glue so it doesn?t fall. The glue dissolves in the hot oil and is harmless. >>> >>> Tom Cutter >>> Rubber Chicken Racing Garage >>> Yardley, PA USA >>> RubberChickenRacingGarage.com >>> >>> On Jun 18, 2021, at 3:19 PM, Craig Barnhart >>> wrote: >>> >>> ? >>> I just got some feedback. >>> >>> Someone said I leaned the bike over too much for the pickup to get oil >>> to the pump. >>> >>> If so, should I just put the bike on the side stand and do it again? >>> >>> On Fri, Jun 18, 2021 at 2:52 PM Craig Barnhart >>> wrote: >>> >>>> Looks like I'll be disassembling from the rear to get to the oil pump. >>>> >>>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/STcPCtZkrEEWXM9G6 >>>> >>>> You can ignore my unedited speech bloopers at the end. >>>> >>>> Craig >>>> >>>> On Wed, Jun 16, 2021 at 12:39 PM Craig Barnhart < >>>> barney12231963 at gmail.com> wrote: >>>> >>>>> Thank you sir! >>>>> >>>>> That's exactly what I wanted, a direction to go. >>>>> >>>>> Maybe I'll take a video to determine what "A LOT" means. >>>>> >>>>> On Wed, Jun 16, 2021 at 11:45 AM Tom Cutter < >>>>> rubberchickenracing at gmail.com> wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> Craig- >>>>>> >>>>>> I use a system called Divide and Conquer. In this case this means >>>>>> look at the system in parts. To do this first remove the oil filter cover >>>>>> (bike laid partly over to left) and see if it is full of oil. A tap on the >>>>>> starter (plugs out/grounded) will tell you if the oil pump is working. If >>>>>> you don't get a LOT of oil coming out of the pump cavity very fast, (this >>>>>> will be messy) then the pump is the problem. On a /5 that means the >>>>>> woodruff key slipped, so you know where you have to go to fix that. VERY >>>>>> common fault with the /5 which uses that tiny key. >>>>>> >>>>>> Check that, report back. >>>>>> >>>>>> -- >>>>>> Tom Cutter >>>>>> Yardley, PA >>>>>> www.RubberChickenRacingGarage.com >>>>>> >>>>>> "Normalize telling your friends that you love them. Tell them a lot. >>>>>> Make it weird." --unk >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> On Wed, Jun 16, 2021 at 11:35 AM Craig Barnhart < >>>>>> barney12231963 at gmail.com> wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> Greetings Airheads, >>>>>>> >>>>>>> I have an oil flow issue on my newly assembled 1972 R50/5 project >>>>>>> bike, and I'm scratching my head trying to determine the next steps. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> This is the first time I ever attempted to start the bike, and I am >>>>>>> not getting oil from the sump to the cylinder heads, and only a residual >>>>>>> amount to the oil sensor (oil pressure light stays on). >>>>>>> >>>>>>> *Background:* >>>>>>> >>>>>>> As part of this three-year (part time) project, I replaced all seals >>>>>>> including the fuel pump's o-ring and cover, the woodruff key, and visually >>>>>>> inspected (no measurements) the fuel pump. I also replaced the pickup >>>>>>> gasket. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> *What I've done since the issue, not necessarily in this order:* >>>>>>> >>>>>>> 1. Read thru this thread: >>>>>>> https://advrider.com/f/threads/airhead-oil-priming-problem-ha.746898/. >>>>>>> The *Bill Harris, Dec 5, 2011 *entry is the best summary on the >>>>>>> page. >>>>>>> 2. Studied Snowbum's diagram and notes: >>>>>>> https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/oilsketch.htm >>>>>>> 3. Tested the oil sensor switch. >>>>>>> 4. Filled the oil filter cavity with oil to prime it (laid the >>>>>>> bike on its side to fill--learned this trick from Tom Cutter). >>>>>>> 5. Hand pumped (as best I could) oil into the oil sensor hole to >>>>>>> prime it. >>>>>>> 6. Visually checked the pickup, bolts, and gasket >>>>>>> 7. Blew air (with an air compressor) into the pickup and felt >>>>>>> air coming out of the right cylinder. >>>>>>> 8. Blew air into the oil sensor hole. >>>>>>> 9. Blew air into oil filter cavity holes. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> *Outcomes after turning over the engine (spark plugs out; green coil >>>>>>> wire off) for 90 seconds at a time:* >>>>>>> >>>>>>> 1. I got a tiny bit of oil into the left head (right side of the >>>>>>> left head) at one point of the process. >>>>>>> 2. Oil is coming into the oil filter cavity. >>>>>>> 3. There is residual oil in the oil sensor hole (seeps out when >>>>>>> sensor is removed), but it doesn't flow out when turning over. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> *AFAIK this is what is left to check:* >>>>>>> >>>>>>> 1. Oil pump - Visually inspect again and take measurements this >>>>>>> time (remove flywheel, etc.) >>>>>>> 2. Oil pressure relief valve - Make sure it's not stuck open >>>>>>> (remove timing cover) >>>>>>> 3. Ensure front main bearing cap oil passage hole lines up with >>>>>>> engine block hole - Not sure if I can do this visually without removing the >>>>>>> main bearing or cap (remove timing cover) >>>>>>> 4. Something clogged in the system - I don't know how to check >>>>>>> this other than blowing air through it. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> *Questions:* >>>>>>> >>>>>>> 1. Can I narrow it down to one area before disassembling the >>>>>>> rear and/or front end? >>>>>>> 2. Is there any way to test the system after disassembling >>>>>>> besides a visual inspection and measurements? >>>>>>> 3. I can tow the bike to Chris' tech day if anyone thinks it >>>>>>> would help to see it in person. Does anyone think it would be helpful to >>>>>>> bring it? >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Thank you! >>>>>>> Craig >>>>>>> >>>>>> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From chrisk224 at comcast.net Sun Jul 4 14:31:05 2021 From: chrisk224 at comcast.net (Chris Kennedy) Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2021 14:31:05 -0400 Subject: /5 oil flow issue In-Reply-To: References:

Message-ID: <003801d77102$c2216240$466426c0$@comcast.net> Afternoon Craig, Congratulations on getting the problem resolved. I liked the way you documented your progress. The advice that is provided on this forum is excellent. Definitely pays to be an Airhead. Cheers Chris From: Craig Barnhart [mailto:barney12231963 at gmail.com] Sent: Sunday, July 04, 2021 6:36 AM To: PA Airheads; mdairheads at casano.com Subject: Re: /5 oil flow issue Hello, This is the last update on my /5 oil flow issue. Oil pump spinning on camshaft: https://youtu.be/AvWdLQlvCMQ Woodruff key missing: https://photos.app.goo.gl/3n8tM8BgbXNPiAVTA Woodruff key replacement with Elmer's glue: https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZnM9uZQssCahuDWNA Oil pump prime and test: https://youtu.be/bs2eNaaPEuU Thank you everyone. Craig On Sat, Jun 19, 2021 at 10:10 AM Craig Barnhart wrote: Take Two: https://youtu.be/0OiJpaVJyH0 No Joy. Note: I forgot to remove (and ground) the spark plugs this time but I had the green coil wire off. The battery was strong enough for the test anyway. It's on YouTube this time so feel free to comment there if you like. On Fri, Jun 18, 2021 at 4:42 PM Tom Cutter wrote: oops, I made a typo! SHOULD SAY " If no joy, you know the pump is NOT working" -- Tom Cutter Yardley, PA www.RubberChickenRacingGarage.com "Normalize telling your friends that you love them. Tell them a lot. Make it weird." --unk Virus-free. www.avast.com On Fri, Jun 18, 2021 at 4:00 PM Tom Cutter wrote: I?d put it on the centerstand with a 1/2? shim under the right hand leg of the stand. Hold a pan under the filter cavity, because this test gets messy if everything is working. If no joy, you know the pump is t working, probably because the tiny key slipped out. I glue the key in with Elmer?s glue so it doesn?t fall. The glue dissolves in the hot oil and is harmless. Tom Cutter Rubber Chicken Racing Garage Yardley, PA USA RubberChickenRacingGarage.com On Jun 18, 2021, at 3:19 PM, Craig Barnhart wrote: ? I just got some feedback. Someone said I leaned the bike over too much for the pickup to get oil to the pump. If so, should I just put the bike on the side stand and do it again? On Fri, Jun 18, 2021 at 2:52 PM Craig Barnhart wrote: Looks like I'll be disassembling from the rear to get to the oil pump. https://photos.app.goo.gl/STcPCtZkrEEWXM9G6 You can ignore my unedited speech bloopers at the end. Craig On Wed, Jun 16, 2021 at 12:39 PM Craig Barnhart wrote: Thank you sir! That's exactly what I wanted, a direction to go. Maybe I'll take a video to determine what "A LOT" means. On Wed, Jun 16, 2021 at 11:45 AM Tom Cutter wrote: Craig- I use a system called Divide and Conquer. In this case this means look at the system in parts. To do this first remove the oil filter cover (bike laid partly over to left) and see if it is full of oil. A tap on the starter (plugs out/grounded) will tell you if the oil pump is working. If you don't get a LOT of oil coming out of the pump cavity very fast, (this will be messy) then the pump is the problem. On a /5 that means the woodruff key slipped, so you know where you have to go to fix that. VERY common fault with the /5 which uses that tiny key. Check that, report back. -- Tom Cutter Yardley, PA www.RubberChickenRacingGarage.com "Normalize telling your friends that you love them. Tell them a lot. Make it weird." --unk On Wed, Jun 16, 2021 at 11:35 AM Craig Barnhart wrote: Greetings Airheads, I have an oil flow issue on my newly assembled 1972 R50/5 project bike, and I'm scratching my head trying to determine the next steps. This is the first time I ever attempted to start the bike, and I am not getting oil from the sump to the cylinder heads, and only a residual amount to the oil sensor (oil pressure light stays on). Background: As part of this three-year (part time) project, I replaced all seals including the fuel pump's o-ring and cover, the woodruff key, and visually inspected (no measurements) the fuel pump. I also replaced the pickup gasket. What I've done since the issue, not necessarily in this order: 1. Read thru this thread: https://advrider.com/f/threads/airhead-oil-priming-problem-ha.746898/. The Bill Harris, Dec 5, 2011 entry is the best summary on the page. 2. Studied Snowbum's diagram and notes: https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/oilsketch.htm 3. Tested the oil sensor switch. 4. Filled the oil filter cavity with oil to prime it (laid the bike on its side to fill--learned this trick from Tom Cutter). 5. Hand pumped (as best I could) oil into the oil sensor hole to prime it. 6. Visually checked the pickup, bolts, and gasket 7. Blew air (with an air compressor) into the pickup and felt air coming out of the right cylinder. 8. Blew air into the oil sensor hole. 9. Blew air into oil filter cavity holes. Outcomes after turning over the engine (spark plugs out; green coil wire off) for 90 seconds at a time: 1. I got a tiny bit of oil into the left head (right side of the left head) at one point of the process. 2. Oil is coming into the oil filter cavity. 3. There is residual oil in the oil sensor hole (seeps out when sensor is removed), but it doesn't flow out when turning over. AFAIK this is what is left to check: 1. Oil pump - Visually inspect again and take measurements this time (remove flywheel, etc.) 2. Oil pressure relief valve - Make sure it's not stuck open (remove timing cover) 3. Ensure front main bearing cap oil passage hole lines up with engine block hole - Not sure if I can do this visually without removing the main bearing or cap (remove timing cover) 4. Something clogged in the system - I don't know how to check this other than blowing air through it. Questions: 1. Can I narrow it down to one area before disassembling the rear and/or front end? 2. Is there any way to test the system after disassembling besides a visual inspection and measurements? 3. I can tow the bike to Chris' tech day if anyone thinks it would help to see it in person. Does anyone think it would be helpful to bring it? Thank you! Craig -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bachman.bill at gmail.com Sat Jul 10 15:48:45 2021 From: bachman.bill at gmail.com (Bill) Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2021 15:48:45 -0400 Subject: disk wear? Message-ID: Hi All, I have an `88 R100 with dual front disks and gave the brakes a safety check today. Pads were fine but the disks were under spec, 3.7mm.? Clymer says they should not be less than 4mm. My questions are: 1. Does that sound like normal wear for 43k miles?? (I know "depends", but generally?) 2. What is the thickness of a new replacement disk?? (just curious, outer edge of old disk reads 4.2mm) 3.? How soon should I plan on replacing the disks?? (and I assume new pads at same time.) thanks, Bill Bachman From jean at beheme.info Sat Jul 10 16:25:01 2021 From: jean at beheme.info (Jean Lachaud) Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2021 16:25:01 -0400 Subject: disk wear? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <008a01d775c9$aa7bdf00$ff739d00$@beheme.info> Hi Bill: New discs are 5mm thick. 3.7mm does sound quite low for 37k miles (are you sure of the mileage?), but that is not a rule cast in concrete. The wear limit is indeed 4 mm (Clymer is right, that is a rarity, you're in luck). You need to replace your discs SOON. The thickness limit is intended to protect the discs from warping, cracking and or breaking under thermal stress, in particular. Don't forget that brakes are a safety item. In the aviation world, your aircraft would be grounded. -- Jean Lachaud 1994 R1100RS - 1977 R100/7 ABC #8889, MOA #56663 > -----Original Message----- > From: Bill > Sent: Saturday, 10 July, 2021 15:49 > To: mdairheads at casano.com > Subject: disk wear? > > Hi All, > > I have an `88 R100 with dual front disks and gave the brakes a safety check > today. > > Pads were fine but the disks were under spec, 3.7mm. Clymer says they > should not be less than 4mm. > > My questions are: > > 1. Does that sound like normal wear for 43k miles? (I know "depends", but > generally?) > > 2. What is the thickness of a new replacement disk? (just curious, outer edge > of old disk reads 4.2mm) > > 3. How soon should I plan on replacing the disks? (and I assume new pads at > same time.) > > thanks, > > Bill Bachman -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus From vinceotter49 at gmail.com Sat Jul 10 17:52:17 2021 From: vinceotter49 at gmail.com (Jim Wilson) Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2021 14:52:17 -0700 Subject: disk wear? In-Reply-To: <008a01d775c9$aa7bdf00$ff739d00$@beheme.info> References: <008a01d775c9$aa7bdf00$ff739d00$@beheme.info> Message-ID: you might check w/ spiegler for replacement 'floating' discs https://spieglerusa.com/brakes/brake-rotors/bmw-conversion-old-models.html On Sat, Jul 10, 2021 at 1:25 PM Jean Lachaud wrote: > Hi Bill: > > New discs are 5mm thick. 3.7mm does sound quite low for 37k miles (are > you sure of the mileage?), but that is not a rule cast in concrete. > > The wear limit is indeed 4 mm (Clymer is right, that is a rarity, you're > in luck). > -- * Jim * I can easily forget what I'm doing, when I'm doing it . . . . -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mrc.engr at verizon.net Sat Jul 10 17:23:36 2021 From: mrc.engr at verizon.net (Michael Cecchini) Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2021 21:23:36 +0000 (UTC) Subject: disk wear? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1934427496.3146431.1625952216345@mail.yahoo.com> Imo...@ 43k miles the rotors should not be down to 3.7. Sounds like someone used sintered metallic pads that are very aggressive material for stronger stopping, but this leads to much more rotor wear.? Very typical.. Unless you are a stickler for originality I'd go with a top name brand rotor maker that can offer you the right pads for their rotor for a perfect match.?? Sorry I can't recommend a aftermarket rotor maker w/pads as you have Brembo F08 calipers and I have earlier ATE calipers.?? I'd call Bud Provin who has 30+ yrs Airhead experience.? ?(802) 483-2460 $.02 *************************************** From: Bill? Hi All, I have an `88 R100 with dual front disks and gave the brakes a safety check today. Pads were fine but the disks were under spec, 3.7mm.? Clymer says they should not be less than 4mm. My questions are: 1. Does that sound like normal wear for 43k miles?? (I know "depends", but generally?) 2. What is the thickness of a new replacement disk?? (just curious, outer edge of old disk reads 4.2mm) 3.? How soon should I plan on replacing the disks?? (and I assume new pads at same time.) thanks, Bill Bachman -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bachman.bill at gmail.com Sun Jul 11 11:04:07 2021 From: bachman.bill at gmail.com (Bill) Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2021 11:04:07 -0400 Subject: disk wear? In-Reply-To: References: <008a01d775c9$aa7bdf00$ff739d00$@beheme.info> Message-ID: <2be3820b-4fbe-9bd0-9e29-5dc23928c098@gmail.com> Dear Jim, Jean and Mike (and others), Jean:? I am the second owner of this machine and think the mileage (43K) is correct. Jim: I have used Spiegler before for stainless brake lines, I will check out their "conversion" process. Mike:? What you say about sintered brake pads may be true.? I have not replaced either pads or rotors since I've owned it.? Bud Provin is a good guy, he was my go-to guy for keeping my K-bikes running great while he was still at Bob's.? I am not locked into OEM but I noticed that the original left and right had unique part no.s (34 11 2 316 067 & 34 11 2 316 067).? What seems to be the superceding part has one number (34 11 1 454 612). _Does that seem right?_ Any other suggestions for aftermarket rotors?? EBC?? My riding style is mostly "smell the roses" (not a racer by any means) if that helps. Thanks, Bill Bachman On 7/10/2021 5:52 PM, Jim Wilson wrote: > you might check w/ spiegler for replacement ?'floating' ?discs > https://spieglerusa.com/brakes/brake-rotors/bmw-conversion-old-models.html > > > On Sat, Jul 10, 2021 at 1:25 PM Jean Lachaud > wrote: > > Hi Bill: > > New discs are 5mm thick.? 3.7mm does sound quite low for 37k miles > (are you sure of the mileage?), but that is not a rule cast in > concrete. > > The wear limit is indeed 4 mm (Clymer is right, that is a rarity, > you're in luck). > > > -- > > /Jim /** > > I can easily forget what I'm doing, when I'm doing it . . . . > > / > / > > // > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wateas at gmail.com Sun Jul 11 11:53:31 2021 From: wateas at gmail.com (William Teasley) Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2021 11:53:31 -0400 Subject: disk wear? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Bill, I recently took some measurements of EBC rotors I had installed back in 2021. The rotors, new, were 4.8 mm. After about 15,000 miles, that thickness had decreased to 4.7 and 4.35 mm for either rotor. I'm not sure why the difference between the rotors in my case, but I suppose you can average them to get a sense of average wear (~ 0.3 mm / 15,000 miles). So, based on that, I think the wear in your case is reasonable. cheers, -Fred On Sat, Jul 10, 2021 at 3:49 PM Bill wrote: > Hi All, > > I have an `88 R100 with dual front disks and gave the brakes a safety > check today. > > Pads were fine but the disks were under spec, 3.7mm. Clymer says they > should not be less than 4mm. > > My questions are: > > 1. Does that sound like normal wear for 43k miles? (I know "depends", > but generally?) > > 2. What is the thickness of a new replacement disk? (just curious, > outer edge of old disk reads 4.2mm) > > 3. How soon should I plan on replacing the disks? (and I assume new > pads at same time.) > > thanks, > > Bill Bachman > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From will_andalora at hotmail.com Sun Jul 11 13:09:49 2021 From: will_andalora at hotmail.com (Will Andalora) Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2021 17:09:49 +0000 Subject: Saturday July 17 MD Airhead Tech Day: Westminster, MD Message-ID: Heads, If you are looking for something to do this coming Saturday July 17th, I am opening the shop at my place for all airheads who want to ride or drive in for the day... Address: 20 Fitzhugh Avenue Westminster, MD 21157 We bought a new place in fall of 2019 and I spent a lot of time during the pandemic outfitting the 2 car garage into a shop for working on bikes. We also recently poured a patio in the back yard that has ample space for gathering and enjoying a few cold beverages. I will be mounting and balancing a new front tire and will be doing a spline lube on my trusty 1980 R80/7. You can join the fun, or just show up to offer constructive criticism. Some of you have seen me change a tire at Supertech which was amusing for most everyone in attendance? Jim McKinna will have a tire changer on hand, so feel free to bring your new tires for mounting? The shop is equipped with tools to perform any work on an airhead outside of a transmission rebuild or installation of valve seats and guides... I have one lift and it will be occupied with my bike for the better part of the day. the shop is 25?x25? clear inside with no center support and has room to support three lifts if anyone wants to haul one over? Plenty of random spare parts on hand as well. Plenty of parking for bikes in the driveway. I have a grill on the back patio and a fridge that can be used to store your beverages. Venison burgers for lunch. Plenty of coolers. Feel free to bring anything along you want to throw on the grill as well. Fire pit in the back yard and plenty of wood for an evening campfire. Space in the yard for tents and air conditioned floor space in the house if you want/need to crash.. Let me know if you plan to attend, so I have an idea of how much food to prep? Will Andalora MD Airmarshal AB C 11737 410 596 0812 Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ezwicky2 at gmail.com Sun Jul 11 15:16:06 2021 From: ezwicky2 at gmail.com (Zwicky, Eric) Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2021 15:16:06 -0400 Subject: Saturday July 17 MD Airhead Tech Day: Westminster, MD In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <247a6dc8-a591-bcd4-066f-7f3bc643b195@gmail.com> Sounds like fun! I will be (hopefully) down in Grayson County riding around with my buddy Nid next weekend. Some of you guys who rode the Rolling Rally down to Gathering of the Clans three years ago might remember him. Anyway, you kids have fun and be safe! Eric On 7/11/2021 1:09 PM, Will Andalora wrote: > Heads, > > If you are looking for something to do this coming Saturday July 17^th > ,? I am opening the shop at my place for all airheads who want to ride > or drive in for the day... From jmcraftsman at netscape.net Sun Jul 11 16:51:16 2021 From: jmcraftsman at netscape.net (James Mckinna) Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2021 16:51:16 -0400 Subject: Saturday July 17 MD Airhead Tech Day: Westminster, MD In-Reply-To: <247a6dc8-a591-bcd4-066f-7f3bc643b195@gmail.com> References: <247a6dc8-a591-bcd4-066f-7f3bc643b195@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1C5F04A5-8554-44D8-A415-776C13143044@netscape.net> Say Hi to him for us Eric. That was a good time. Jim > On Jul 11, 2021, at 3:16 PM, Zwicky, Eric wrote: > > ?Sounds like fun! I will be (hopefully) down in Grayson County riding around with my buddy Nid next weekend. Some of you guys who rode the Rolling Rally down to Gathering of the Clans three years ago might remember him. > > Anyway, you kids have fun and be safe! > > Eric > >> On 7/11/2021 1:09 PM, Will Andalora wrote: >> Heads, >> If you are looking for something to do this coming Saturday July 17^th , I am opening the shop at my place for all airheads who want to ride or drive in for the day... From ezwicky2 at gmail.com Sun Jul 11 18:35:41 2021 From: ezwicky2 at gmail.com (Zwicky, Eric) Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2021 18:35:41 -0400 Subject: Anybody heard from Mac Kirkpatrick? Message-ID: <5f10ef21-817f-d70c-6742-2dc29743520e@gmail.com> Remembering the Rolling Rally to Gathering of the Clans a few years ago reminded me that Mac Kirkpatrick was in our group. And I haven't heard from him in a while. I heard second-hand that he was having some health problems a couple months ago, so I just wanted to see if anybody has any news. Eric Z RVa From mrc.engr at verizon.net Sun Jul 11 13:01:27 2021 From: mrc.engr at verizon.net (Michael Cecchini) Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2021 17:01:27 +0000 (UTC) Subject: disk wear? In-Reply-To: <2be3820b-4fbe-9bd0-9e29-5dc23928c098@gmail.com> References: <008a01d775c9$aa7bdf00$ff739d00$@beheme.info> <2be3820b-4fbe-9bd0-9e29-5dc23928c098@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1304580314.3471141.1626022887182@mail.yahoo.com> Bill....... I am more of a /6 specialist, so I cannot specifically advise you on your /7 part #'s. This is where Bud Provin comes in.??Bud knows /7's big time and will give you honest, responsible, frugal advice.? Since you are "smell the roses" rider, then your requirements are minimal. You aren't reinventing the wheel.? This quite simple.? Call Bud and let him help you......and do buy from him please.? My best......... Mike? **************************************************** From: Bill? Dear Jim, Jean and Mike (and others), Jean:? I am the second owner of this machine and think the mileage (43K) is correct. ?? Jim: I have used Spiegler before for stainless brake lines, I will check out their "conversion" process. Mike:? What you say about sintered brake pads may be true.? I have not replaced either pads or rotors since I've owned it.? Bud Provin is a good guy, he was my go-to guy for keeping my K-bikes running great while he was still at Bob's.? I am not locked into OEM but I noticed that the original left and right had unique part no.s (34 11 2 316 067 & 34 11 2 316 067).? What seems to be the superceding part has one number (34 11 1 454 612).? Does that seem right? Any other suggestions for aftermarket rotors?? EBC?? My riding style is mostly "smell the roses" (not a racer by any means) if that helps. Thanks, Bill Bachman -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ezwicky2 at gmail.com Mon Jul 12 08:04:02 2021 From: ezwicky2 at gmail.com (Zwicky, Eric) Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2021 08:04:02 -0400 Subject: Anybody heard from Mac Kirkpatrick? In-Reply-To: References: <5f10ef21-817f-d70c-6742-2dc29743520e@gmail.com> Message-ID: <8e486799-9df7-5cc4-6ac8-8090fdccbae9@gmail.com> That's great to hear, thanks Ken! Tell Mac I say hi if you do talk to him sometimes. Eric On 7/12/2021 8:02 AM, Ken Bruce wrote: > Hey Eric, > Mac appears to have recovered nicely and is doing well.? He took > delivery of a new 4x4 camping rig and is currently on a nice, long > shakedown run out west. > > Ken Bruce > Downingtown, PA From kgbruce1 at gmail.com Mon Jul 12 08:02:03 2021 From: kgbruce1 at gmail.com (Ken Bruce) Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2021 08:02:03 -0400 Subject: Anybody heard from Mac Kirkpatrick? In-Reply-To: <5f10ef21-817f-d70c-6742-2dc29743520e@gmail.com> References: <5f10ef21-817f-d70c-6742-2dc29743520e@gmail.com> Message-ID: Hey Eric, Mac appears to have recovered nicely and is doing well. He took delivery of a new 4x4 camping rig and is currently on a nice, long shakedown run out west. Ken Bruce Downingtown, PA On Sun, Jul 11, 2021 at 8:34 PM Zwicky, Eric wrote: > Remembering the Rolling Rally to Gathering of the Clans a few years ago > reminded me that Mac Kirkpatrick was in our group. And I haven't heard > from him in a while. > > I heard second-hand that he was having some health problems a couple > months ago, so I just wanted to see if anybody has any news. > > Eric Z > RVa > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bachman.bill at gmail.com Tue Jul 13 16:00:44 2021 From: bachman.bill at gmail.com (Bill) Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2021 16:00:44 -0400 Subject: rotors from Euro MotoElectrics Message-ID: <94b19ffc-c80d-8717-7733-6ec690882e5d@gmail.com> I found reasonably priced rotors from EME ($243 each) but was confused by the 3.5mm MINIMUM thickness noted so I contacted them: ??? Your listing says "NOTE: Minimum Thickness is 3.5mm". Is that correct? BMW spec is to replace anything less than 4mm. This was their somewhat bizarre response: ??? Hi these rotors are made by Brembo who is the OEM supplier to BMW for most brake parts. The listing says the "minimum thickness is 3.5mm", so that means that is the MINIMUM. ??? Hope that helps? Well, no it didn't.? Anyone figure out what they mean?? How can minimum be less than the rejection spec? thanks, Bill Bachman -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From csutty400 at gmail.com Tue Jul 13 19:07:06 2021 From: csutty400 at gmail.com (Chris) Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2021 19:07:06 -0400 Subject: rotors from Euro MotoElectrics In-Reply-To: <94b19ffc-c80d-8717-7733-6ec690882e5d@gmail.com> References: <94b19ffc-c80d-8717-7733-6ec690882e5d@gmail.com> Message-ID: this may be a viable option for you.... https://www.ebay.com/itm/254412223182?hash=item3b3c2672ce:g:sxAAAOSw4CFY0ok7 On Tue, Jul 13, 2021 at 4:01 PM Bill wrote: > I found reasonably priced rotors from EME ($243 each) but was confused by > the 3.5mm MINIMUM thickness noted so I contacted them: > > Your listing says "NOTE: Minimum Thickness is 3.5mm". Is that correct? > BMW spec is to replace anything less than 4mm. > > This was their somewhat bizarre response: > > Hi these rotors are made by Brembo who is the OEM supplier to BMW for > most brake parts. > The listing says the "minimum thickness is 3.5mm", so that means that > is the MINIMUM. > > Hope that helps? > > Well, no it didn't. Anyone figure out what they mean? How can minimum be > less than the rejection spec? > > thanks, Bill Bachman > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sailorcto at gmail.com Tue Jul 13 19:30:05 2021 From: sailorcto at gmail.com (Sailorcto) Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2021 19:30:05 -0400 Subject: rotors from Euro MotoElectrics In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <758CE375-43E8-434E-802D-2A48F804F28D@gmail.com> Yup. Those are EBC semi-floating rotors. I have them on 4 bikes. Plug and play and a simple upgrade, IMO. ?Tony On Jul 13, 2021, at 19:07, Chris wrote: ? this may be a viable option for you.... https://www.ebay.com/itm/254412223182?hash=item3b3c2672ce:g:sxAAAOSw4CFY0ok7 On Tue, Jul 13, 2021 at 4:01 PM Bill wrote: > I found reasonably priced rotors from EME ($243 each) but was confused by the 3.5mm MINIMUM thickness noted so I contacted them: > > Your listing says "NOTE: Minimum Thickness is 3.5mm". Is that correct? BMW spec is to replace anything less than 4mm. > This was their somewhat bizarre response: > > Hi these rotors are made by Brembo who is the OEM supplier to BMW for most brake parts. > > The listing says the "minimum thickness is 3.5mm", so that means that is the MINIMUM. > > Hope that helps? > Well, no it didn't. Anyone figure out what they mean? How can minimum be less than the rejection spec? > > thanks, Bill Bachman > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wateas at gmail.com Tue Jul 13 19:31:35 2021 From: wateas at gmail.com (William Teasley) Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2021 19:31:35 -0400 Subject: rotors from Euro MotoElectrics In-Reply-To: <94b19ffc-c80d-8717-7733-6ec690882e5d@gmail.com> References: <94b19ffc-c80d-8717-7733-6ec690882e5d@gmail.com> Message-ID: My question is where the BMW spec is from. Clymer? It might be outdated. I would just trust the manufacturer spec or whatever is printed on the rotor. -Fred On Tue, Jul 13, 2021, 4:01 PM Bill wrote: > I found reasonably priced rotors from EME ($243 each) but was confused by > the 3.5mm MINIMUM thickness noted so I contacted them: > > Your listing says "NOTE: Minimum Thickness is 3.5mm". Is that correct? > BMW spec is to replace anything less than 4mm. > > This was their somewhat bizarre response: > > Hi these rotors are made by Brembo who is the OEM supplier to BMW for > most brake parts. > The listing says the "minimum thickness is 3.5mm", so that means that > is the MINIMUM. > > Hope that helps? > > Well, no it didn't. Anyone figure out what they mean? How can minimum be > less than the rejection spec? > > thanks, Bill Bachman > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mrc.engr at verizon.net Tue Jul 13 19:56:24 2021 From: mrc.engr at verizon.net (Michael Cecchini) Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2021 23:56:24 +0000 (UTC) Subject: rotors from Euro MotoElectrics In-Reply-To: <94b19ffc-c80d-8717-7733-6ec690882e5d@gmail.com> References: <94b19ffc-c80d-8717-7733-6ec690882e5d@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1611978928.2164382.1626220584111@mail.yahoo.com> Different rotors of different eras (even made by the same maker) have different min thickness because different rotor materials are used.? This is why each rotor should be stamped on them the min thickness.......and most do.? *************************************** From: Bill Well, no it didn't.? Anyone figure out what they mean?? How can minimum be less than the rejection spec? Thanks, Bill? *********************************************************************** Someone wrote:?? I found reasonably priced rotors from EME ($243 each) but was confused by the 3.5mm MINIMUM thickness noted so I contacted them:??? Your listing says "NOTE: Minimum Thickness is 3.5mm". Is that correct? BMW spec is to replace anything less than 4mm.This was their somewhat bizarre response:??? Hi these rotors are made by Brembo who is the OEM supplier to BMW for most brake parts. ??? The listing says the "minimum thickness is 3.5mm", so that means that is the MINIMUM. Does this help? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mrc.engr at verizon.net Tue Jul 13 21:50:12 2021 From: mrc.engr at verizon.net (Michael Cecchini) Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2021 01:50:12 +0000 (UTC) Subject: rotors from Euro MotoElectrics In-Reply-To: <758CE375-43E8-434E-802D-2A48F804F28D@gmail.com> References: <758CE375-43E8-434E-802D-2A48F804F28D@gmail.com> Message-ID: <49986886.4768020.1626227412451@mail.yahoo.com> I've been running the EBC full floating rotors for the past 10+ yrs. on my R90S.? Great rotors. Combined with the EBC carbon ceramic pads it's a great combination. ****************************************************************** From: Sailorcto? Yup. Those are EBC semi-floating rotors. I have them on 4 bikes. Plug and play and a simple upgrade, IMO.? ?Tony https://www.ebay.com/itm/254412223182?hash=item3b3c2672ce:g:sxAAAOSw4CFY0ok7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ezwicky2 at gmail.com Wed Jul 14 14:17:52 2021 From: ezwicky2 at gmail.com (Zwicky, Eric) Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2021 14:17:52 -0400 Subject: September 9-12, 2021- MD Airheads Last Days of Summer Rally! In-Reply-To: References: <7e31bc27-0146-7b59-125d-61f0fa0a59b9@gmail.com> Message-ID: <78dec220-ca1a-251c-1815-8bb1bd7de8e3@gmail.com> Hey Ken, this needs to go to Will Andalora. I'm copying him here. See you at the campsite in September! Eric On 7/14/2021 2:02 PM, Ken McDonald wrote: > Hi Eric, I sent my fee via PayPal. Did you receive it? > > Kenneth J. McDonald CBET > BMET II > GE Healthcare USCAN Service > T 540 994 8554 > C 276 730 5159 > > >> On Jun 17, 2021, at 2:04 PM, Zwicky, Eric wrote: >> >> ?From Will Andalora of the MD Airheads. >> >> >> -------- Forwarded Message -------- >> Subject: ? ?September 9-12, 2021- MD Airheads Last Days of Summer Rally! >> Date: ? ?Thu, 17 Jun 2021 12:16:33 -0400 >> From: ? ?Maryland Airheads >> To: ? ?mdairheads at casano.com, PA Airheads List >> >> >> >> Hedz, >> >> Mark your calendars... >> >> Please join us for the return of the MD Airheads Last Days of Summer >> Rally. We have reserved the same group camping site and pavilion at >> the Little Orleans Campground. The campground is under new ownership >> and I've been told they now have Wi-Fi! >> >> We'll be out there by noon Thursday September 9th. Dinner is on you >> Thursday... We'll have coffee and lite? breakfast fare Friday, >> Saturday, and Sunday. Dinner served Friday and Saturday. >> >> $55 gets you three nights of camping, breakfast and coffee three days, >> and dinner two nights. >> >> Attendance is limited to 60 people, so reserve your spot by paying in >> advance. >> >> Pay by PayPal at marylandairheads at gmail.com >> ?. Use the friends and family option... >> >> >> If you register, please plan to attend as I will be buying food and >> will not issue refunds for no-shows... >> >> Spread the word far and wide... I only have access to the PA and MD >> list servers. >> >> Looking forward to seeing everyone again. >> >> Thanks, >> >> Will Andalora >> MD Airmarshal >> ABC 11737 >> 410 596 0812 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> From paairhead at gmail.com Sun Jul 25 22:16:09 2021 From: paairhead at gmail.com (rob) Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2021 22:16:09 -0400 Subject: REMINDER Red Rock Rally Message-ID: Hey KIds, Here's the reminder email for the Red Rock Rally. We're gonna try something new this year! The Red Rock Rally will be July 30-August 1 2021 at the Mill Race Golf and Camp Resort. https://www.millracegolf.com/ Cost is $25 for each night of camping. This is a special rate we have arranged with the resort owners. Please mention PA Airheads and "check in" after 2pm. There is a restaurant/bar at the resort as well as many other places to eat/drink in the surrounding area. This is pretty much a DIY rally There are many beautiful roads nearby to explore. Bring your rod for fishing, play a round of golf and/or enjoy the wonderful Benton area.Bill's Old Bike Barn is nearby too! Hope to see you soon, PA AIrheads Rally Bureau *Mill Race Golf & Camping Resort, LLC* 4584 Red Rock Rd. Benton, PA 17814 Phone: (570) 925-2040 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: